Malaysian Cuisine

When I read Phil Wang’s book Side Splitter, which I reviewed earlier in the year, I enjoyed his chapter on food, in which he deservedly marvelled at the blandness of much British food (in particular so-called ‘party food’), and talked about how comparatively delicious and interesting Malaysian food was (with the notable exception of the puddings).

I realized I’d never actually tasted Malaysian cuisine, and cooped up at home after recent surgery I googled local Malaysian takeaways, and found that there was one about a 15-minute drive away imaginatively called the Malaysian Deli and located on Brockley Road in London SE4. It had some rave reviews, and seemed to attract repeat customers to its small dining space as well as for takeaway orders.

I thought the food might turn out to be quite familiar, like a Chinese or Thai takeout, but while the meal was fragrant like Thai food, it was entirely unique in its flavours. To start, we went for gado-gado: a vegetarian starter that was described as a Malay-style salad with tofu and vegetables, served with a peanutty sauce. This I enjoyed, despite remembering as it arrived that I don’t really like tofu.

We followed up with a vegan percik, aubergine cooked in a mild and creamy coconut sauce, together with lemongrass, onion, garlic and turmeric. We also both tried the chicken rendang, a traditional Malaysian curry, which is drier than a sauce-based curry, and was described on the menu as slow-cooked in coconut milk, lemongrass (again), galangal (a herb often used in South-East Asian cooking, and also known as Thai ginger or Siamese ginger) and lime leaves. We also ordered a portion of prawn crackers, which I see as some kind of barometer of quality. Although described as medium-hot the rendang was just the right side of heavy with the chilli flavours, with a distinct gingery taste, along with a pleasant nuttiness. All in all this was a pleasingly different meal from our usual default takeaway choices.

Although takeaways photograph badly, I’ve included a pic anyway.

Book Review: The Empusium – A Health Resort Horror Story by Olga Tokarczuk (Poland)

Translated by Antonia Lloyd-Jones

It was finally time to start and finish something by the Nobel laureate. I’d got some way into two earlier books by Olga Tokarczuk, on Kindle and audio, but these formats can be tricky. I find Kindle text impenetrable for all but the easiest of reads. Audio books are the same; if the content is at all intellectually challenging I just start thinking about work or the other issues du jour. So I armed myself with a physical copy of The Emposium, published by the magnificent Fitzcarraldo and Tokarczuk’s latest in English translation, which I reserved at my local library. The subject matter appealed: it sounded Gothic. Plus, I was confined to the house following surgery, with three weeks off work to recuperate. Come on girl, you can do this, I thought.

The opening was promising. In 1913 tubercular Mieczylaw (Mieczys) Wojnicz, a student of hydroengineering and sewage systems, travels to a Central European health resort from Lwow (now the Ukrainian city of Lviv). He stays at the Guesthouse for Gentlemen, run by the faintly sinister Wilhelm Opitz, who is aided by the modish psychoanalytical theories of Doctor Semperweiss. Disconcertingly, Opitz’s wife dies in uncertain circumstances almost as soon as Mieczys arrives (and is briefly laid out on the dining table for all to see). As Mieczys’s stay lengthens, the atmosphere becomes increasingly uncomfortable and mysterious.

Each evening the guests/patients, who exhibit various degrees of eccentricity, meet for dinner. This meal sounds largely unappealing, except the residents are served copious amounts of the mysterious local liqueur, Schwarmerei, which interferes with perception (“as if the world were built of plywood and were now delaminating before their eyes”) and loosens tongues (before inertia sets in). A world of arcane and outlandish theories emerges around this very masculine table, which always circle back to the perceived inadequacies of women.

“Whenever he lay down after boozing (promising himself not to drink so much of this demonic brew!), under his eyelids he saw flares, or figures that seemed to be made out of little mirrors reflecting each other and their surroundings from various angles, sending his vision into a truly agonizing frenzy. Another world was storming his body, trying to get inside his brain, by sending out flashes and illusions.”

Although billed as a ‘horror story’ there are no jump scares here, and the book is lightly plotted, focusing on theme and language. The action all takes place within the final third of the novel, but this doesn’t detract from the fun. With nods to Thomas Mann, this is a wry and enjoyable novel, expertly translated and blending feminist satire, humour, history and the supernatural.

Film review: Ama Gloria (Cabo Verde)

‘Ama Gloria’ is technically a 2023 French film, but most of the action takes place in the African island state of Cabo Verde (Cape Verde). I caught a screening a little while ago at our local Picturehouse cinema, which sometimes shows foreign films, although fewer, it seems, than before the COVID pandemic. Maybe they’re less willing to take a gamble on ticket sales these days.

It is a touching and emotionally intimate film, directed by Marie Amachouleki-Barsacq, which presents a child’s-eye view of the world. This choice of perspective can be a recipe for disaster – who can really remember what it is like to inhabit a child’s consciousness? – but I found it be well-handled here.

When the film opens, six-year-old Cleo (played by Louise Mauroy-Panzani) is living in Paris with her widower father, who is kind but mostly at work. Most of Cleo’s time is spend with her adored nanny, Gloria (Ilca Morena). We see the two of them happily engaged in day-to-day activities, Gloria emanating warmth and Cleo full of giggles.

But one day Gloria learns that her own mother has died back home in Cabo Verde, where she also has children of her own. She resolves to return to her family for good, but motherless Cleo is broken-hearted and begs to be allowed to spend the summer in Cabo Verde at Gloria’s family home. Mauroy-Panzani’s performance is extraordinary, at times heart-rending and always entirely credible.

The beauty of the archipelago of Cabo Verde is depicted with almost mythical extravagance, but the relative poverty of Gloria’s life there in comparison with Cleo’s comfortable middle-class life in Paris is also evident. Cleo comments innocently on the diminutive size of Gloria’s house (“It’s small but it’s mine” she replies).

During her time in Cabo Verde Cleo experiences ups and some quite significant downs. Gloria’s teenage daughter is pregnant, and once the baby arrives her attention is inevitably divided, and Cleo, who is used to being treated as a much-loved youngest daughter, is jealous.

Cleo must learn to accept that although Gloria loves her dearly, she has made her decision to remain in Cabo Verde, while Cleo must ultimately return to her life in Paris, and a new nanny. The plot is secondary to the emotional truths of the film, which while raw at times is imbued with warmth throughout.

Book Review: Under a Rock by Chris Stein (USA)

This was book 11 of my 20 books of summer, a recently published rock autobiography by Blondie musician Chris Stein, and a bit of a disappointment overall. As the guitarist in an iconic new wave/rock band, who had a romantic relationship with Debbie Harry for over a decade, I thought it might be reflective and insightful, and I guess I was hoping for a bit of rock gossip.

Unfortunately the book was low on introspection and on information. I didn’t really get a sense of either his or Harry’s character. Stein even seemed, dare I say it , a bit boring: just a guy who likes guitars and has a few other niche interests. It really stripped away any sense of mystique!

However, I did get a good cat name out of reading this book (Stein’s childhood cat was called Elizabeth Noodle Soup – beat that!), which I’m stealing, and it did have the odd interesting moment.

Stein was addicted to drugs from an early age and for a very long time, and I wonder if this might have had an impact on his ability to recollect events. There was a fair amount of narrative that went (and I paraphrase): ” We went to a party, and David Bowie was there, but I don’t remember much about it.”

There is a really affecting epilogue to this book, in which Stein tells of the death of his teenage daughter from an accidental overdose, which took place after he had finished writing the book. Stein acknowledges somewhat chasteningly here that in reality addiction all too often has tragic consequences, despite a market for confessional “war stories”.

Book Review: The Echoes by Evie Wyld (England)

A very quick review of The Echoes, which was book 10 of my 20 books of summer, and probably my favourite read of the summer so far. It’s written by Evie Wyld, who was named one of the Best of Young British Writers by Granta in 2013.

The Echoes has only just come out, and I wasted no time in plunging into it, with an immediately engaging narrative that weaves in and out of different time frames: ‘Before’, ‘After’ and ‘Then’.

It opens ‘After’ with the voice of Max, hitherto a creative writing tutor, and now a ghost who is rather reluctantly haunting the South London flat where he lived until his death with his Australian girlfriend Hannah:

“I do not believe in ghosts, which, since my death, has become something of a problem.”

Hannah has been emotionally scarred by events that took place during her childhood back home, which she has kept from Max, and the narrative spools back in time to both her life on a goat farm with her rural Australian family and to the time that follows her move to London, where she met and moved in with Max.

It is an intelligent, literary novel, and one that is a bit experimental and high-concept, but it’s also a really pacy page-turner, and I loved every minute I spent reading this book. I’m not big on gritty these days, and there are some shocking revelations both about Hannah’s family history and the dark history of the place where she was raised, and where terrible abuse was visited on the Aboriginal population. However, this is counter-balanced by the very contemporary, natural dialogue, and a strong undercurrent of humour (including a fantastic set piece involving Christmas with Max’s dreadful parents) in the sections set in South London. And I loved that I could recognise the locations in the sections set in London, where I live.

Book Review: The Reader (Der Vorleser) by Bernard Schlink (Germany)

Translated by Carol Janet Brown Janeway

This 1995 novel, which is book 9 of my 20 books of summer, feels like it should be much older, if only because it seems to been on my radar forever.

The book follows some 30 years in the life of a man called Michael Berg, who recalls his sexual involvement with Hanna, a woman more than twice his age, when he was just 15. It is an intense, stormy and uneven relationship that for a time utterly consumes Michael, although he has normal teenage interests too, and when Hanna mysteriously leaves town he seems to come to terms with both the ‘affair’ and her abandonment of it.

“When I see a woman of thirty-six today, I find her young. But when I see a boy of fifteen, I see a child.”

Years later, while studying law, Michael unexpectedly encounters Hanna at a Nazi war crimes trial where she is appearing as a defendant, accused of terrible crimes while guarding Jewish prisoners. Michael is naturally engrossed by the trial but also confused by some of Hanna’s behaviour during it, as she seems to act counter to her own interests. It dawns on Michael that Hanna has another secret that she is determined to conceal.

As the story unfolds it becomes clear that Michael’s entanglement with Hanna as a teenager has impacted his whole life – and Hanna’s, and they remain distantly connected. His marriage fails, his relationship with his daughter seems distant, and he struggles to reconcile his erotic teenage memories with his knowledge of Hanna’s actions during the War.

The Reader deals with big themes of guilt, accountability, abuse and deprivation, but is written in deceptively simple prose, like a young adult novel. I wondered if it was aimed at teenagers, but its themes seemed very adult.

An unexpectedly large proportion of the books I read deal with issues around the Second World War, presumably because it was such a massive event in the 20th century that its themes continue to dominate ‘serious’ literature. I also seem to be reading an unsavoury amount of fiction about under-age illicit relationships – I read and review Duras’s The Lover only last month.

Himself a lawyer and a judge, Schlink’s writing questions not only Hanna’s actions, but also the response to those actions by others, and what humans in general are capable of doing – or not doing.

Book Review: The New Life by Tom Crewe (England)

This is book 8 of my 20 books of summer, which I finished a couple of weeks ago but have taken a while to write up.

The New Life is a 2023 debut novel that has been raved about in the press. It’s set in the buttoned-up Victorian era (I love a Victorian pastiche), and based on real events. John is a married, upper middle-class gay man, who by necessity lives with his wife and three daughters in a closeted and sexless marriage and a permanent state of sexual frustration as he lusts after the men he sees around the streets of London.

He eventually becomes attached to a younger, very good-looking and rather dapper man who is from a different social class. John falls for him hard, to the extent that he risks moving him into his home as his unlikely ‘secretary’, much to his wife Catherine’s mortification.

Henry, meanwhile, is a shy, straight man with embarrassing sexual foibles that are not easily satisfied (he likes – or needs – to watch women pee), and he seeks a life that separates the institution of marriage from the act of sex. He ends up living (not entirely willingly) with a lesbian wife who openly romances a female friend.

Henry and John collaborate on a academic work entitled ‘Sexual Inversion’ (based on a real 1897 book), which seeks to normalize atypical sexual feeling, specifically homosexual desire (‘inversion’ in the parlance of the time). Unfortunately, however, the publication of their book, which contains confessional accounts by gay men (albeit mostly using euphemistic Greek terminology), coincides with the infamous Oscar Wilde trial, and therefore puts both their careers and their positions in society at risk.

After all the fanfare I found the book good, but not that good. The character I was most moved by was possibly Catherine, as she ended up with nothing but wasted decades and the occasional borderline rape incident (at those times when John’s state of repressed horn got too much for him and he would ‘take her’ in a frenzy). Catherine’s life, as John’s, was ruined by her marriage. But whereas John, for all his longstanding frustrations, as a member of the patriarchy had the agency and financial freedom that ultimately enabled him to indulge his desires and build a life moulded around erotic pleasure and sexual obsession, she was simply missold a husband and left to grow increasingly lonely and embittered.

There’s lots of vividly described sex in this novel, and with its Victorian setting it reminded me of Michel Faber’s The Crimson Petal and the White. That was more fun, though The New Life has some important social points to make..

Book Review: The Lover (L’Amant) by Marguerite Duras (France)

Translated by Barbara Bray

This is book 7 of my 20 books of summer. Marguerite Duras was born in 1914 and this, her most famous novel, won the Prix Goncourt in 1984 (and was also made into a film). She died in Paris in 1996, when French Prime Minister Alain Juppé described her as “a great writer whose magnificent and disturbing style … turned contemporary world literature upside down.”

I guess this classic work would now be considered some breed of autofiction. It concerns a 15-year-old French girl living in the 1930s in what was then French Indochina and is now, I think, Vietnam. She dresses eccentrically but provocatively and catches the attention of a wealthy local man in his late 20s, with whom she starts a sexual relationship.

“I’m wearing a dress of real silk, but it’s threadbare, almost transparent. It used to belong to my mother [..] This particular day I must be wearing the famous pair of gold lamé high heels […] It’s not the shoes though that make the girl look so strangely, so weirdly dressed. No, it’s the fact that she’s wearing a man’s flat-brimmed hat, a brownish-pink fedora with a broad black ribbon.”

Although the book principally concerns the protagonist’s coming of age in Asia, it roams backwards and forwards in time, to the deaths of the girls’ brothers, the later death of her disillusioned mother home in France, then back to Asia. Indeed it opens when the girl is much older, a ‘ravaged’ older woman, before spooling back in time:

“One day, I was already old, in the entrance of a public place a man came up to me. He introduced himself and said: “I’ve known you for years. Everyone says you were beautiful when you were young, but I want to tell you I think you’re more beautiful now than then. Rather than your face as a young woman, I prefer your face as it is now. Ravaged.”

No one expresses much overt concern about the teenager’s relationship with the older, local man (though today I suppose he would be charged with statutory rape). She is candid in her enjoyment of the sensual side of the relationship (and this, really, is all their relationship boils down to).

The girl lives with her mother, who lives in a depressive state of genteel poverty, and her two brothers, one of whom is a violent sociopath, who monopolizes the mother’s attention and resources, and gambles away any money. In contrast, the younger brother seems to be a more vulnerable character. Although all three family members essentially no doubt disapprove of the relationship, they also benefit from it, so do not openlyy protest, while the girl seems cut-adrift, but at the same time inappropriately worldly in her assessment of her situation in life.

Ultimately though it is not the plot but the dreamy, melancholy prose and the vivid imagery, conjuring the smells and sounds and heat of Asia, that makes this short novel so wonderful. I really enjoyed this one, much more than I expected to.

Book Review: The White Tiger by Aravind Adiga (India)

This was book 6 of my 20 books of summer, and not a favourite. I work with many Indian colleagues so I’m interested in learning more about the country and the culture, but I didn’t enjoy this book, which won the Booker in 2008, and which had been languishing on my Kindle for about 13 years.

The book’s protagonist is Balram Halwai, who moves from a background of deep poverty to a life as a successful entrepreneur. The book is organized as a series of letters to Chinese Premier Wen Jiabao, in which Halwai gives his rags to riches story, and his advice for getting to the top in business.

India has certainly become a big part of the capitalist business model, both as a source of cheaper labour for Western corporates, and also in its own right. But this particular story is in no way heart-warming. As Halwai notes: “Only a man who is prepared to see his family destroyed … can break out of the coop.”

Halwai’s caste, background and name mean that he would have been expected to live as a simple sweet-maker in the ‘Darkness’, the rural, under-developed area of India in which he was born – and where he left his family behind in poverty.

As his employers in the ‘Light’ of the big city attempt to exploit him, Halwai turns the tables, ultimately building a business empire (of sorts) from scratch, although he has been morally and ethically ruined on the way up.

This is book that deals with serious themes, with an attempt to lighten the darkness with humour along the way. I didn’t find it funny, but it is described as a comic novel – just one that wasn’t for me!

Book Review: Eat Pray Love by Elizabeth Gilbert (USA)

This is book 5 of my 20 books of summer, and I went into it with few expectations. Well, maybe that’s not entirely true. I expected to be slightly irritated, but I couldn’t quite put my finger on why.

But I love a travelogue, and this 2006 memoir is a three-location, year-long adventure, covering author Liz Gilbert’s immersion first in the beautiful language, interesting sights and delicious food of Italy, followed by time finding peace at a retreat in India and finally finding balance on a sojourn in Bali as she attempts to get over a shattering divorce and the break up of an intense rebound relationship back home in the US.

Although Gilbert is a candid, genuinely charming and often funny guide, I sometimes found her utter self-absorption quite alienating. I feel most of us don’t have time to sift through the minutiae of our lives like this, picking up and examining every last feeling at length, though at the time of writing this book Gilbert was much younger than I am now – perhaps I’d have found it a more relatable read before I got married, and before I became middle-aged and frazzled. She is entirely free from ties, and therefore free to indulge in a LOT of self-discovery. She also clearly has a strong religious faith which I can’t/don’t share, so again I found I was reading, happily absorbed, and suddenly thrown by an account of an experience that I was unable to relate to (and it’s a book I think that is aiming for relatability), and which seemed suddenly to make life and its challenges over-simplistic (in that ‘everything happens for a reason’ way). Her adventures seemed to pan out swimmingly for her too, with lovely people everywhere she went, so sometimes I wondered if she’d been a little economical with the truth in order to give the book its pleasing structure and abundance of warmth (I don’t want to sound too cynical but surely not EVERYONE was utterly delightful all the time!). 

The book has been hugely influential: indeed there’s whole book available entitled ‘Eat Pray Love Made Me Do It’, comprising the life-affirming accounts of people who read the book and were inspired to make changes in their own lives, and I’ve learnt that the book was also made into a movie, which I’d be happy to watch.

Overall I would recommend this book. It’s probably a bit of a girlie read, so might not appeal to most male readers so much, but I was mostly interested, entertained and mildly inspired. Although I could have done without the ableist language: her use of terms like ‘spastic’ and ‘spazzy’ made me wince.